Foggy Ben Bulben

On my recent trip to Sligo I hoped to take some nice photos of Ben Bulben, the county’s spectacular tabletop mountain. William Butler Yeats is buried at its foot in the graveyard at Drumcliffe.

Ben Bulben

Ben Bulben

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This lovely photo is a sample of what I dreamed of shooting.

Foggy Ben Bulben

This is my best effort.

Alack and alas the weather did not cooperate.

Perhaps I shouldn’t blame the weather, only my own misguided optimism after a glorious sunny few hours on the first day of my trip.

Lough Gill, Co. Sligo

Lough Gill, Co. Sligo

I spent my first afternoon on the banks of Lough Gill taking sunny lake photos. On the way back to Sligo I drove around a bend to behold a magnificent view of a sunlit Ben Bulben.

The sharp bend of the road made me think twice about stopping, so I drove on a little until I found a spot to park my car.  Out I popped and snapped a few shots of Sligo town with the mountain of Knocknarea in the distance.

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Delighted with my photos, I considered driving towards Ben Bulben to find a spot to go snap happy. Looking at the beautiful blue skies I grew optimistic about the infamous Irish weather.  Instead of pressing on with my photo shoot plans, I made the decision to explore further the next day.

View Of Knocknarea From The Glasshouse Hotel

View Of Knocknarea From The Glasshouse Hotel

Wrong choice!!

 

Bad decision!!

 

The next day dawned gray and cloudy. The wind didn’t “bundle up the clouds, high over Knocknarea”. Instead Atlantic mists blanketed the bay, the mountains and the town.

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Fat rolls of fog furled and curled and rolled down the steep slopes of Sligo’s lovely mountains.

And the moral of my story is ….

…. never bank on two sunny days in a row in Ireland. If the

sun is shining then keep taking photos, until the sun sets

and says goodnight. The sun calls it quits, not you.

 

In Ireland, you can never be assured of mother nature’s cooperation.  It could take her days or even weeks before letting the sun peep out, to once again illuminate Ireland’s spectacular scenery.

 

 

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

Irish American Mom

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A Soft Day, Thank God

“A soft day” is a phrase you will hear frequently in Ireland.  In the west of the country it is usually followed with a gracious salutation, of “thank God.”  These soft days occur regularly where Atlantic mists envelope the mountains.

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A soft day is a description of the weather, and is probably very unique to the Emerald Isle.  It is a day when the precipitation is a cross between mist and drizzle and is sometimes referred to as “mizzle”.

The rain does not fall to the ground in heavy droplets, but seems to hover and linger in the air.  Yet this rain is too heavy to be classified as mist, and it is not vaporous and rolling like fog.   It only takes a  few minutes outdoors on a soft day, to be soaking wet.

A soft day is refreshing, and can be unexpectedly bright.  The air is crisp, but not sharply cold. It’s just damp, damp, damp.

Irish MistImage Credit

 As I was writing this post I remembered a poem we learned at school describing these soft Irish days.  The English poet, Winifred M. Letts, spent quite some time in Ireland as a little girl.  Her poem “A Soft Day, Thank God” describes these typical Irish days with magical words.  In the first verse she says:

 

“A soft day, thank God!

A wind from the south

With a honey’d mouth;”

 

Then in the second verse she adds:

 

“A soft day, thank God!

The hills wear a shroud

Of silver cloud;”

 

Waking up on a soft day requires decisions -  is it a “day for the bed or the high stool”?

So for anyone planning a trip to Ireland this summer, don’t forget to pack your rain gear.  Not many tourists have the opportunity to spend the day in bed, tucked away from those Irish mists.

 

 

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

Irish American Mom

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County Kerry – The Kingdom

County Kerry is a mystical, rugged, and scenic Irish county that has captivated tourists for hundreds of years, making the Ring of Kerry one of the most famous attractions in all of Ireland.

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Waterville On The Ring Of Kerry At Sunset

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Known as The Kingdom to the people of Kerry, the county is the closest any tourist will get to experiencing an ancient, mythical, Celtic kingdom.  Misty mountains, glacial lakes, rugged peninsulas, magical rainbows, secluded hamlets and windswept beaches await.

Larger towns like Tralee, Killarney and Kenmare provide wonderful accommodations from budget friendly hostels to luxury castle hotels.  Many pubs host live traditional music sessions in the evenings, so tourists can experience the warm welcome of the Kerry people.

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Kerry is one of the six counties of the province of Munster and is the 5th largest county in all of Ireland.

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Ballybunion Beach

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Ballybunion is located in the northern part of the county and is famous for its challenging, blustery golf courses.  The town boasts a statue of President Bill Clinton holding his golf club, to commemorate his trip to the town.

Also famous for its sandy beach, Ballybunion is a surfer’s paradise.

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Listowel And Its Racetrack On The Banks Of The River Feale.

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Located in the very heart of north Kerry on the banks of the river Feale is the town of Listowel.  The ancient stone keep, Listowel Castle, dates back to the 1300′s.  The town is also famous as the home of the writer John B. Keane.  It hosts an annual literary festival and the famous Listowel Races.

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Blennerville Windmill, Ireland’s Largest Windmill, Just Outside Tralee.

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Tralee is the largest town in County Kerry, established in the 13th century.   Tralee town sits beside the River Lee from whence it takes its name, in Irish, Trá Lí meaning ‘strand of the Lee’.  The northern access route onto the Dingle Peninsula starts in the town.

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Candidates For The Rose Of Tralee

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The annual Rose of Tralee Festival crowns one fair maiden as the winner. Her duties, you ask.???  It’s simple – just represent Ireland to the world. No pressure whatsoever!!!

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Gallarus Oratory – Dingle Peninsula

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The Dingle Peninsula has the highest density of ancient archaeological monuments of any other landscape in western Europe.   Almost 70 Ogham stones are dotted around the area. Ogham (pronounced “o-am”) is the earliest form of Irish writing.  It is thought the stones may be old landmarks, or possibly could be signs associated with land ownership.

The Gallarus Oratory pictured above, is a small stone chapel dating back to between the 6th and 9th century AD.

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Clogherhead Beach, Dingle Peninsula

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The Dingle Peninsula is a mountainous finger of land which juts into the Atlantic Ocean.  The Connor Pass connects the peninsula to the Tralee road and offers some of the most amazing ocean views in all of Ireland. Be prepared for some daunting twists and turns, as the road hugs the edge of Atlantic cliffs with sheer drop-offs.  Spectacular beaches await, with breathtaking sunsets over the Atlantic Ocean.

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Inch Beach On The Dingle Peninsula

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Inch Beach on the Dingle Peninsula is a beautiful sandy strand.  The movie Ryan’s Daughter was filmed here.

Dingle, in my estimation, can be counted as one of the most beautiful places in the world.  On a sunny day, there is nowhere on earth quite like it.  And on a wet day, you can’t beat the inviting atmosphere of one of Dingle’s many pubs and cafes.

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Slea Head, Dingle Peninsula

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Slea Head is a promontory on the westernmost point of the Dingle Peninsula offering spectacular views of the Blasket Islands.

The Blasket Islands

The Blasket Islands lie off the coast and were inhabited until 1953.  The islands were home to native Irish speakers, many of whom immigrated from Ireland and settled in Springfield, Massachussets.  Others moved across the water to Dingle, and their descendants continue to live within sight of their island home.

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Killarney

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Killarney is a hub of activity for tourists seeking to undertake a tour of the famous Ring of Kerry.  But my advice is not to rush out of town, but to spend some time savoring the atmosphere and visiting some of the local tourist attractions.

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Ross Castle

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Ross Castle, near Killarney, is open for tours.  It is an example of an Irish chieftan’s stronghold during the Middle Ages.

Muckross House

Within Killarney National Park lies Muckross House, a magnificent Victorian mansion.  Here, tourists can appreciate the lifestyle of Ireland’s once landed gentry.  Downstairs, the basement displays the life of the servants.

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Rhododendrons In Muckross Gardens

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The Gardens at Muckross House are renowned for magnificent azaleas and rhododendrons, a water garden, and rock garden.

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Torc Waterfall, Killarney National Park

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Torc Waterfall is one of Killarney’s famous tourist attractions.  You may not wish for rain on your trip to Ireland, but after a good downpour these falls are even more spectacular.  For the more energetic visitor, there are about 100 steps at the side of the falls.  At the top a magnificent view of the lakes awaits.  Torc Waterfall is a busy stopping point for bus and coach tours.

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Jaunting Car – © Copyright Graham Horn and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons License.

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Killarney is well known for its jaunting car tours of the surrounding lakes and national park.  To some this may seem a little too touristy, but trust me, the drivers of these jaunting cars are experts on local culture, environment and history.  They are true entertainers.

I remember taking a jaunting car trip as a child and laughing my heart out at our hilarious driver.  He even told jokes to entertain kids.  As they say in Ireland – “he was a real character”.

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Lakes of Killarney

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To the southwest of the town, lies Killarney National Park, a 26,000 acre expanse of rugged, mountainous country.  The extraordinary combination of misty mountains, reflective lakes, whispering woods and cascading waterfalls, all under tumultuous changing skies, adds magnificence to the scenic beauty of this natural wonderland.

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Carrauntoohil – Ireland’s Highest Mountain

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Carrauntoohil is Ireland’s highest mountain and is part of the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks range, which boasts nine of Ireland’s ten tallest peaks.

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Ring Of Kerry Bus Tour – © Copyright Joseph Mischyshyn and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons License.

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Many tourists envision the Ring of Kerry as a town, or a place they can visit for an hour or two.  The Ring is in fact a looping road which winds for 179 kilometers around the Iveragh Peninsula.  In the summer months, many tour buses can be spotted, winding around the coast or stopped at scenic viewpoints dotted along the route.

Driving the Ring of Kerry is an experience of a lifetime.  Here the mountains meet the ocean with scenic splendor, making this trip one of the world’s most spectacular drives.

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The Town of Kenmare

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The town of Kenmare is a perfect stopping point on a tour of the Ring of Kerry.  South of the busier hub of Killarney, it is a great central point for touring Cork and Kerry.  Brightly colored houses, shops, bars, restaurants and hotels line the streets of this welcoming town, nestled in the Kerry mountains and set against the splendid backdrop of Kenmare Bay.

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Double Rainbow Over Cahergall Stone Fort, Near Cahirsiveen, Co. Kerry

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The Ring of Kerry boasts ancient ringforts, sublime scenery, rainbows, beaches and outdoor activities to suit every tourists needs.

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Beehive Huts In Sneem On The Ring Of Kerry – © Copyright Joseph Mischyshyn and licensed for reuse under Creative Commons License.

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Everywhere in Kerry, it is easy to feel connected to our ancient, mythical past.  Archaeological treasures seem to dot the roadsides and countryside.

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Valentia Island

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Valentia Island is located on the western loop of the famous Ring, and for such a small island boasts an amazing history.

The oldest footprints in the northern hemisphere were found on the cliffs here.  Slate from the island’s quarry was exported all over the world and was used to roof the Paris Opera House and the London Houses of Parliament.

The first weather forecasting station was set up here in 1860 and the first transatlantic cable landed here in August 1858.  This little island deserves a blog post all of its own.

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Little Skellig from Skellig Michael – Islands In The Atlantic

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The Skellig Islands, off the Kerry coast, are home to a 7th century monastic complex, perched on the steep sides of the rocky island of Skellig Michael.  The extreme remoteness of Skellig Michael has until recently discouraged visitors.  The site is therefore exceptionally well preserved.

And so we come to the end of our tour of County Kerry.  There are many places I had not time nor space to include today, but trust me, if there is a county in Ireland that is not to be missed, County Kerry falls into that category.

Here are some links to help with planning a trip to this Celtic Kingdom of Kerry.

Discover Ireland – Kerry

Ring of Kerry Tourism

Kerry Tourism

Dingle Peninsula Tourism

For links to Irish American Mom’s tour of the other counties of Ireland here is the link:

Ireland: County-By-County

 

Wishing you all happy travels in the land of my birth.

 

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

Irish American Mom

 

 

 

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Exploring With My Discover Ireland

The best piece of advice I can give tourists visiting Ireland is to get off the beaten path, to discover the road less taken and the hidden treasures awaiting.  However, navigating Ireland’s backroads can be daunting for anyone unaccustomed to winding, narrow roads. 

But fear not!  Help is at hand from the developers of a new website called My Discover Ireland.  Today I am pleased to publish Lianne Murphy’s guest post on this exciting new web tool for tourists to Ireland.

When visiting Ireland, do you know where you’re going or where things are? Most people dive into guidebooks for advice on where to go before arriving in Ireland. What about en-route to these destinations?

With My Discover Ireland, you can enter your starting point and destination and the application will display places you can visit along the route. This breaks up long drives, allows you to get fresh air and makes the journey even more interesting!

 

My Discover Ireland is similar to Google Maps but with added features to aid tourists in planning their road trips.  For those who like to stray a little off the beaten path, this tool is a must.

Many drivers unknowingly pass fantastic places they could have visited;  But now help is readily available by using MyDiscoverIreland.com

There are five categories to choose from:

  • Culture
  • Museums
  • Outdoors
  • Historic
  • Attractions

You can choose to see as many types of categories you wish, or just one.  The listings are clickable to see more information & photographs.

 

Screen shot from My Discover Ireland

 

My Discover Ireland gives an estimation of the basic details of the route distances in kilometers and miles, the duration, fuel costs and driving directions, including turn-by-turn details which are so helpful when navigating Ireland’s roads.

The tool allows people to:

  • Print driving directions
  • Reverse directions
  • Clear map
  • Drag destinations to alternate the order
  • Delete destinations by clicking X

The designed routes are shareable with people by emailing the link, sharing it on Facebook / Twitter or Google+.  Information is at your fingertips.

A big thanks to Lianne Murphy for this guest post submitted on behalf of  MyDiscoverIreland.com

Wishing you all happy new discoveries as you travel the highways and byways of Ireland.

 

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

Irish American Mom

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The Story Of The Saint Brigid’s Cross

Today is St. Brigid’s Day and all across Ireland people still adhere to the old
tradition of mounting a St Brigid’s cross in a place of honor in their home, to protect against fire and evil spirits.  The origins of the cross are the topic of today’s post.

St. Brigid is attributed with creating the distinctive form of the cross which bears her name.  Known as an Irish christian symbol, the original design was probably inspired by the pagan sunwheel.

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The cross is most frequently made from rushes, but sometimes straw is used.  A distinctive square of woven rushes is the centerpiece, from which four radials extend, each tied at the end.

As a school child in Ireland in the 1970′s we learned an old legend about how this cross came into existence.  St. Brigid took on mythical significance in our young imaginations.  We grew to love and admire her independent spirit, her determination and dedication to God.  Here’s how the old tale goes.

An old pagan chieftan lay delirious on his deathbed in Kildare.  In some versions of the story this chieftan is her father.  His servants summoned Brigid to his bedside, in the hope this saintly woman might be able to calm his restless spirit.

As she sat by his bedside, trying to calm and console him, she picked up some of the rushes which were strewn across the floor of the room.  As her fingers played with the dry strands, she started weaving them together, eventually forming a cross.

As she worked she explained the meaning of the cross to the sick man.  Her calming words brought peace to his soul. The chieftan’s fever broke, and he grew quiet.  Captivated by her lesson of love and enlightenment, the old chieftan was baptized as a christian, just before his death.

Once word of his conversion reached beyond his lands, news spread fast.  Ever since, Irish people have made rush crosses to commemorate the occasion.

Boxty Pancakes – A St. Brigid’s Day Tradition

Happy St. Brigid’s Day to all.  You may want to celebrate by making Boxty pancakes, a traditional food served on this day.

 

Slán agus beannacht leat!

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom

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