On the hill of Howth in north County Dublin secret coves await would-be explorers, daring enough to descend one hundred and ninety-nine steps carved out of the sheer cliff face.
In my post today, I once again hope to take you off the beaten path, and help you discover some of Ireland's hidden treasures and take you on a journey down the 199 steps to Howth's pirate cove.
Table of Contents
A Secret Cove in Howth
When I was a little girl growing up in Dublin, my grand aunt loved weekend outings with all my cousins in tow. One of our favorite hang outs was on the beach at the bottom of the "199 steps" in Howth.
My cliff stair collage above shows how these stone steps are carved out of the cliff, winding their way from the shore to Howth summit.
Grace O'Malley in Howth
This is Grace O'Malley territory. The famous Irish pirate queen visited Howth on many occasions.
My grandaunt loved to tell us this very cove was where Grace O'Malley always came ashore in Howth. Considering Grace O'Malley, or Granuaile in Irish (pronounced Graw-nea-wale) lived between the years 1530 and 1603, the truth of this tall tale may never be known.
Undeterred my grandaunt relayed stories of pirates working by torch light to hack and cut 199 steps from the rocky cliff face, to allow their pirate queen ascend to Howth's summit undetected by the English.
We loved to wind our way along the cliff path in search of the first step to this secret pirate cove.
We looked down from on high dreaming of Grace's lost treasure, just waiting behind some rock for our eager eyes to find.
A Day Out By The Shore
Last summer I rediscovered these secret steps with my children.
Once I told them of potential pirate treasure, they made quick work of navigating the treacherous steps.
A sense of mystery and magic awaits on the rocky shore below.
You can easily imagine the pirate queen herself standing on top of this barnacle covered rock issuing orders to her crew of Mayo men.
This strange rock has not shifted since I was a little girl.
I imagined a big, strong pirate flung the smaller red rock across the beach with such force that it lodged into the larger boulder.
I'm certain there's a perfectly sound geological explanation for this rock formation, but let's face it, nothing beats a good pirate story.
This is no sandy beach. Shoes are definitely required for pebble covered shores.....
....... and seaweed strewn rocks.
My kiddos were convinced Grace O'Malley's treasure lay beneath the large rocks at the base of these cliffs.
I spent hours as a child climbing those very rocks. In four decades they don't seem to have budged even an inch.
A small row boat could easily have been maneuvered close to the rocky shore at this very point, allowing the brave Grace reach dry land.
O'Malley's connections to Howth are not just part of my late grandaunt's vivid imagination.
In 1576 Grace O'Malley tried to call upon Lord Howth at his castle only to be informed the family was at dinner and she was not a welcome guest.
This rejection did not sit well with the bold Grace. The Lord of Howth soon felt the full brunt of this pirate queen's wrath, when she abducted his grandson and heir.
The terms of the child's release included a promise from Lord Howth to keep the gates of his castle open to unexpected visitors, and to always set an extra place at every meal.
This pledge is still honored at Howth Castle to this very day, with an extra place setting laid at table. I wonder if Grace's ghost ever inspects the distance between the knife and fork.
This ferry passed as we roamed the shoreline, following in the wake of pirate vessels from years gone by. What a day, imagining ghosts and pirates roaming around searching for treasure.
And so, after an energetic day playing on a secret pirate cove in Howth, the long trek upward and homeward began. There are no cable cars or lifts to take treasure hunters back to the cliff top. The only way home is to shift one foot after the other until all 199 steps are finally surmounted.
For anyone interested in a stiff climb to a secret (or not-so-secret anymore) cove, access to the 199 steps lies on the left hand side of the cliff as you walk out the headland towards the Bailey Lighthouse. That's all the information I'm willing to part with, and if you can't find it, perhaps you'll find the way on an old pirate treasure map.
Wishing you all happy trails, discovering your very own hidden Ireland.
Thanks for following my recipes and ramblings.
Slán agus beannacht,
(Goodbye and blessings)
Mairéad -Irish American Mom
Pronunciation - slawn ah-gus ban-ock-th
Mairéad - rhymes with parade
Here are some more recipes and ramblings you might enjoy...
Immigrant Tales
- Brave Hearts By Jean Mahoney - Book Giveaway
- World Village Playset Ireland Giveaway
- Irish Immigrant Song Tugs On The Heartstrings
- The Poetry Of Joan Cusack Handler
Poetry
- Soul of Skellig - The Poetry of Anne Herridge
- What Is A Limerick?
- If I Were A Lady .... I'd Wear A Hat
- Finnegan's Wake, With An Apostrophe - In Memory of Irish Poet Paddy Finnegan
Mags
I think Granuaile is one of the greatest characters in Irish history. I love the idea of searching for her lost treasure on the beach. Lovely photos.
Irish American Mom
Mags - I agree that Granuaile is a fascinating character and definitely one of the most notable women in Irish history. I love the story of how she went to London to make demands of Queen Elizabeth I. The two spoke in Latin since Granuaile did not speak English. Queen Elizabeth was so impressed, she granted the pirate queen's requests.
Best wishes,
Mairéad
T.M. Johnson
I had not heard of Grace O'Malley and did some research on the "Pirate Queen." Given such a colorful character, it's easy to see how lore and legend would adhere to her.
And your lucky children...to be able to frolic where their mother visited and played as a child. What a great connection to their heritage. My riverside haunts now are covered by forty feet of the Columbia River, so I was not able to share them with my daughter. I tried to recollect those days in a memoir I wrote and dedicated to her.
199 steps up and down a cliff! I experienced vertigo looking at your wonderful photos...just as I did when my mom shared her photos of the Cliffs of Moher with me. Thanks for the very fascinating post. As you say, everyone loves a good pirate story. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrgh! TMJ
Irish American Mom
T.M. - I'm so sorry to hear your riverside haunts are now submerged by the Columbia River, but it's wonderful to know you created a memoir of those cherished childhood days for your daughter. What a treasure for her to keep for her family.
I'm delighted this post was the one to introduce you to the most fascinating woman in Irish history. I often think her life would be a wonderful topic for a movie, because once again, everyone loves a good pirate story, especially one featuring a pirate queen.
One other legend tells how the brave Grace would tie a string around her big toe at night, and that string was attached to her ship. If anyone tried to steal her ship, the string alerted her. Now I haven't figured out how the poor woman got any sleep with her shipping bobbing up and down in the harbor constantly pulling her big toe, nor how she didn't get gangrene in said big toe from lack of blood supply.
All the best,
Mairéad
Noreen Rafferty
Terrific post on Howth and the pirate queen, Grace O'Malley. I saw the Pirate Queen on Broadway a few years ago. I did not know that tradition to set an extra place setting is honored today at Howth Castle.
Great story and wonderful place to visit next time I travel to Ireland.
Irish American Mom
Noreen - I never got a chance to see The Pirate Queen when it was showing in Chicago and New York. I'm sure it was a wonderful show.
All the best,
Mairéad
Chris Caughey
I always love the part that because she was a woman Queen Elizabeth pardoned her!! 🙂
Irish American Mom
Chris - And I bet Good Queen Bess never before, nor never again met a woman quite like her.
All the best,
Mairéad
Maureen D
Just returned from one day in Howth and found black rocks with many holes. Is this from volcanic action many years ago?
Irish American Mom
Hi Maureen - I wish I could shed light on the black rocks in Howth. I always associate red rocks with Howth. The quartzite rock is even known as Howth rock. Directly across Dublin Bay is a suburb called Blackrock. I wonder if there are black rocks associated with this whole area. Wish I could have been more help.
All the best, and I hope you enjoyed your time in Howth.
Mairéad
mary omalley
Very interesting I married a mayo Omalley just read some books by Tricia omalleyonoy fiction ,looked up and found all this about grace Omalley fasanated
Irish American Mom
Hi Mary - Grace O'Malley sure is an intriguing character in Irish history. She was a wily operator who knew how to get what she wanted. I love the story of how she negotiated with Queen Elizabeth I using Latin to communicate.
Best wishes,
Mairéad
Arthur Kelley
I have been to me homeland 22 times since I turned 50 in 2001. I left my heart there & every time I go I try(not very hard mind you) to find it but alas, no such luck. I hope to go back this year to spend my 71st Bday& my 23 trip. I have been to Howth & dearly loved it as all of Ireland. I have many friends there, scattered from Dublin to Limerick to Cork. God bless Eire. May she survive forever.
Art Kelley
Saint Louis, Mo
Irish American Mom
Hi Arthur - Lovely to hear you've been to Howth and visited Ireland, your homeland, so many times. Once you go, you just have to go back and you definitely are proof of that theory. I hope you have another amazing trip to Ireland to celebrate your birthday. Best wishes for a successeful trip filled with friends and good times.
All the best,
Mairéad