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Irish American Mom

Celebrating Our Irish Heritage Together

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County Longford – The Heart of Ireland

January 4, 2019 by Irish American Mom 8 Comments

County Longford lies at the heart of Ireland and is steeped in ancient Irish mythology and lore.  From the reedy shores of Lough Gowna to the banks of the River Shannon, the quiet countryside of County Longford overflows with rural charm.

A low-lying, inland county, it’s an outdoor enthusiast’s dreamland.

Cloondara, where the Royal Canal meets the River Shannon.

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Come join me today on a photographic tour of this inland treasure, which may seem off the beaten path to many.  However, County Longford is an area of great natural beauty, just waiting to be explored.

 

Located In The Province Of Leinster:

 

County Longford is one of the 12 counties in the ancient province of Leinster. 

Location of County Longford in Ireland

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Known in days gone by as the Land of Annaly, a common nickname for County Longford is “O’Farrell County.”  You’ve guessed it – in day’s gone by the O’Farrell clan were in charge in this neck of the woods.

Most of this inland county lies in the basin of the River Shannon.  Lough Ree one of the big lakes on the River Shannon forms much of the county’s western boundary.

Longford’s landscape is generally low-lying, and features acres of pastureland, bogland and lakes.

 

Longford Town:

 

The county takes its name from its principal town, Longford. The word longfort  is derived from the Viking word for a safe harbor, or a stronghold.

The town boasts wide streets and many buildings date back to the 18th and 19th centuries.  The 200 foot tower of St. Mel’s Cathedral dominates the town.

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Building of this cathedral began in 1840, but was interrupted by the tragedy of the Great Irish Famine.  It was not finished until 1893.

Unfortunately, the building went up in flames on Christmas Day 2009. Restoration has been completed and once again this magnificent church is open to the public.

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Luckily, the cathedral’s windows survived the blaze, which include many beautiful stained-glass works by renowned Irish artist Harry Clarke.

 

The Royal Canal:

 

The Royal Canal is a man-made waterway which once was the principal cargo route between Dublin and the River Shannon.  Building began in 1789 and the canal was first opened in 1817.

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It was closed in 1961 when railways and trucks replaced barges for cargo transportation.

But good news! The canal has now been restored to its former glory after years of campaigning by local community groups.

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Flowing for over 90 miles (146 km), the canal is now navigable from Spencer Dock in Dublin to Richmond Harbour in Clondra, County Longford, the point where the Royal Canal meets the River Shannon.

This historic waterway is a wonderful amenity for the people of Longford, providing incredible opportunities for water leisure activities, not to mention the enjoyment of walking its peaceful banks.

 

Ballinamuck:

 

The village of Ballinamuck is well known to students of Irish history.

The very last battle of the 1798 Rising of the Irish against British rule took place here in County Longford. 

Gereral Cornwallis, whose British forces were defeated during the American Revolutionary war, did not meet a similar fate in Ireland.  He led the British army against a combined Irish and French force at the Battle of Ballinamuck.

French battle survivors were sent home but the Irish survivors were shown no mercy.  They were hunted down and executed in the nearby village of Ballinalee

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Ballinamuck Visitor Centre houses an excellent exhibition which details the Battle of Ballinamuck and the 1798 Rising.  Visitors learn about the social and political history of the era, and the significance of this battle for Ireland, Europe and the rest of the world.

Trails lead visitors to the battle sites and the ‘Croppies’ Graves’ can be visited.

The name “Croppy” is used to describe the United Irishmen who fought in the 1798 Rebellion.  The Society of United Irishmen cut their hair in a closely cropped style in opposition to the aristocratic fashion of wearing powdered wigs. However, such short haircuts aroused the suspicions of the English and Irish ‘croppies’ were often seized for interrogation and tortured.   Most were brutally killed in the days and years after the 1798 Rising.

The Ballinamuck Visitor Centre is housed in a barracks built for the Royal Irish Constabulary in 1846 to help counter insurrection and to monitor the people of North Longford who were feared by the British for their revolutionary nature.

 

Corlea Trackway:

 

The Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre explores the significance of a pre-historic roadway discovered at the site in 1984.

An Iron Age trackway of large oak planks was discovered in the bog at Corlea, near the village of Kenagh, and dates back to 148 BC.

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These wooden tracks survived through thousands of years, buried beneath bog peat.  It is believed the ancient roadway was built to allow passage of wheeled vehicles.  It is the biggest and heaviest prehistoric roadway ever discovered in Europe.

The Corlea Exhibition Centre is built on the exact axis of the trackway with an 18 metre stretch of the preserved roadway on permanent display.

A boardwalk across the bogland allows visitors to follow the course of Iron Age man.  This modern track has been built along the course of the ancient roadway.

 

Granard:

 

The town of Granard is home to the remains of an Anglo-Norman Motte and Bailey.  Built around 1199 by the Norman Knight, Richard de Tuite, it is one of the best examples of these earthen fortifications in Ireland.

Learning about motte-and-bailey castles was part of our Irish history curriculum when I was a youngster in Ireland.  The Motte was a huge circular earthen mound with a wooden or stone castle built on top.  It was surrounded by a bailey or courtyard with a protective ditch and palisade or protective fence.

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It is said that Granard’s Motte and Bailey was erected upon and within a pre-existing ringfort or rath, much to the chagrin of the Celtic O’Farrell clan. Local folklore claims there is a fairy castle concealed within the mound. Other stories recount tales of vast stores of fairy gold.

A statue of St. Patrick was erected on the mound in 1932, and our beloved saint has a magnificent vista.  Standing at 534 feet above sea level he has scenic views of many lakes and surrounding counties.

 

Ardagh Heritage Village:

 

Ardagh is a charming, picturesque village with many beautiful Victorian buildings.

It’s history however dates back way past the 19th century to pre-Christian times.  A forested hill called Brí Leith (pronounced Bree Leh) was once a famous center for Celtic religious worship.

Ardagh was an important center for Christian worship and Saint Patrick himself visited many times.  He appointed his nephew Saint Mel as the Bishop of Ardagh and the Abbott of the Monastery of Ardagh.  The revered Saint Mel is said to be buried beneath the ruins of his church at Ardagh, and Longford’s Cathedral bears his name.

Saint Brigid, Mary of the Gael, is said to have visited Ardagh before founding her famous monastery at Kildare.

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In the early 1700’s the Fetherston family moved to Ardagh and built their home on their estate.  They were improving landlords and redesigned the village itself.  Beautiful Victorian buildings survive to this very day.

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Lady Fetherston built the homes for her tenants and was inspired by the neat order of Swiss town planning.

The Fetherston family home, Ardagh House, was once mistaken for an inn by the famous English writer, Oliver Goldsmith (1728 – 1774), who was born in County Longford.  The young poet thought the Fetherston daughters were servants, an incident which inspired his famous play, ‘She Stoops to Conquer.’

Goldsmith’s writings were inspired by many locations in County Longford.

 

Edgeworthstown:

 

The town of Edgeworthstown is most famous as the home of the celebrated Anglo Irish author Maria Edgeworth (1768 – 1849), and her family.  The Edgeworth family first made their home in the area in 1583.

Richard Lovell Edgeworth was an ingenious and eccentric inventor and surveyor.  Maria was one of his 22 children and was keenly interested in the Irish and their way of life.  Her novels, of which ‘Castle Rackrent’ may be the most famous, immortalize life on small, rural Irish estates in the early 19th century.

She was admired as a writer by Sir Walter Scott and Jane Austen.

 

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Edgeworthstown House was once the center of Anglo Irish aristocratic life in County Longford. It is now a private nursing home,

Fond memories of Maria Edgeworth remain throughout County Longford.  Despite her advancing years, she worked tirelessly to help the starving Irish during the tragedy of the Great Irish Famine.

 

Lough Gowna:

 

Lough Gowna lies between counties Longford and Cavan and is an angler’s paradise.

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The lake’s name means calf lake in Irish.  It derives from a legend about a supernatural calf which escaped from a well south of the lake and raced northward.  The well water streamed after the calf and flooded the area to form the lake.

 

Lough Ree:

 

Lough Ree is the second largest lake on the River Shannon and forms the western boundary of County Longford.

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The lake is popular for fishing and boating.  Many islands dot the lake and the very central point of Ireland is located on an island in the lake.

 

Saints Island Priory:

 

Saints Island is a tranquil, peaceful site in County Longford with stunning views across Lough Ree.

Located  a short distance outside the village of Newtowncashel, the ruins of an old priory are found on the island, which is connected to the mainland by a causeway.

Saint Ciarán of Clonmacnoise first founded a monastery here before 542 AD.  The ruins which now stand on the island belong to an Augustinian Monastery founded before 1259 AD.

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It was here that Abbot Augustin Magraidin authored his manuscript collection of the lives of Irish Saints ‘Vitae Sanctorum Hiberniae.’  This important work is now preserved in the Rawlinson collection of manuscripts in the Bodleian Library, Oxford.

The Monastery flourished until the time of the suppression of all Irish and English monasteries by the infamous Henry the VIII and continued by his daughter, Elizabeth I, who is not-so-lovingly called ‘Good Queen Bess’ in Ireland.

Today, the ruins of this ancient place are a memorial to Ireland once known as ‘The Land of Saints and Scholars.’   This spiritual place is perfect for contemplation and for many is one of Ireland’s thin places.

 

Abbeyderg Abbey:

 

The ruins of the Augustinian Priory of Abbeyderg is located outside the village of Kenagh. The priory was founded in the 13th century and dedicated to St Peter.

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The Abbey remained in existence until 1540 when once again Henry VIII destroyed it along with four other monasteries in this region.

 

Aughnacliff Dolmen:

 

Aughnacliff is home to one of Ireland’s most unusual looking dolmens.

This amazing megalithic portal tomb boasts two massive capstones, balancing on each other. Truly a sight to behold!

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Another dolmen in the area, called the Cleenrath Dolmen is known locally as ‘Leaba Diarmuid agus Gráinne’, which means  ‘the bed of Diarmuid and Gráinne’.

Gráinne was the daughter of the High King of Ireland and was supposed to marry Finn McCool.  However she fell in love with one of Finn’s warriors called Diarmuid, and the pair ran off together.  Finn went in hot pursuit and the two spent many nights lying beneath Ireland’s dolmens.  One such dolmen remains noted in local Longford lore as the Cleenrath Dolmen.

 

Myths And Legends:

 

County Longford has strong associations with the legendary Queen Maeve of Connacht.   The epic Celtic tale, An Táin Bo Cuailgne, (pronounced Tawn Bow Koo-in-eh) tells the story of how Queen Maeve stole the coveted Brown Bull of Cooley from Ulster.  On her pilfering journey she overnighted with her armies in Granard.

But County Longford brought no luck to the mighty Queen Maeve because she met her death while bathing on the island of Inis Clothran on Lough Ree. She was killed by her very own nephew who is supposedly buried on Cairn Hill, Longford’s highest point. 

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Queen Meave and the Druid from The Boy’s Cuchulainn by Eleanor Hull 1904

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Another mythical tale from Longford is the legend of Midhir and Étain set at the hill of Brí Leith in Ardagh. This is a love story known as ‘The Wooing of Étain’ and this mythical tale spans over a thousand years.

It recounts the many lives and loves of the beautiful Étain, and this story is recorded in one of the earliest surviving Irish manuscripts, the Yellow Book of Lecan.

This is a story of the fairy people of Ireland known as the Tuatha De Dannan.  County Longford is thought to be the location of portals to the underground world of these mythical fairy people. 

Perhaps you’ll find an entrance to their magical world as you travel this beautiful county.

 

More Information On County Longford:

 

More information about County Longford can be found on the Tourism Longford website.

Wishing everyone happy travels throughout Ireland’s thirty-two counties.

 

Slán agus beannacht,

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom

 

Here are some other counties featured in this series which you may like to check out ….

http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1405851

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County Cavan

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2017/01/02/lovely-leitrim/

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County Leitrim

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2012/01/05/swimming-in-the-rain/

County Donegal

Filed Under: General Tagged With: 1798 Rising, Ancient Ireland, Ardagh, Ballinamuck, County Longford, Edgeworthstown, Ireland - County By County, Ireland's Counties, Irish History, Land and Culture, Lessons For Tourists, Lough Ree, Photos of Ireland, rural ireland

County Limerick – The Treaty County

July 3, 2018 by Irish American Mom 10 Comments

Located in the south west of Ireland, County Limerick is in a central location, close to Shannon Airport, and a perfect tourist base.

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County Limerick lies at the heart of the Shannon region in Ireland with the City of Limerick built right on the banks of Ireland’s longest river.

Limerick is a tourist’s paradise.  The county boasts beautiful mountains to the south. The Ballyhoura and the Galtees are spectacular inland mountain ranges surrounded by rich fertile plains and verdant valleys of green.  County Limerick boasts over 5,000 years of history with evidence of Neolithic life, amazing medieval castles and charming thatched cottages just waiting to be explored.

County Limerick is one of the six counties in the ancient province of Munster.  Here’s a location map for County Limerick ….

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And so today I invite you to join me as we take a photographic tour, on and off the beaten track, visiting Limerick’s scenic countryside, charming villages, thatched cottages, medieval castles, ancient monastic sites, stone circles, lakes, mountains and rivers.

 

Limerick City:

 

Limerick City lies on the banks of the river Shannon and is close to 1,100 years old.  Founded by the Vikings around 922 AD its inhabitants traded with other Norse settlements all around Europe.

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The Normans captured Limerick in 1195 and transformed the settlement by building some magnificent stone buildings.

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This old tower by Thomond bridge is a magnificent example of medieval Norman architecture.  In years gone by the city was surrounded by thick stone walls for protection.

 

King John’s Castle:

 

King John’s Castle stands along the banks of the river Shannon and is remarkably well preserved.

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2016/04/12/exploring-the-river-shannon/

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Lying in the heart of medieval Limerick, King John’s Castle is one of the most stunning fortresses to visit in Ireland. The exhibition covers over 800 years of history and brings stories of this city to life.

 

The Treaty Stone:

 

The seventeenth century was the most violent in Ireland’s history. Limerick city endured four terrible sieges in 1642, 1651, 1690 and 1691 during these turbulent times.

The Treaty of Limerick, signed in 1691 by Patrick Sarsfield, ended the Williamite war in Ireland between the Jacobites and the supporters of William of Orange, and concluded the last Siege of Limerick.

 

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Signing of the famous treaty occurred on an irregular block of limestone now called the Treaty Stone and displayed on a pedestal in Limerick City.  Limerick’s nickname of the Treaty County derives from this historical event.

Patrick Sarsfield and the other Catholic leaders left Limerick and Ireland, beginning what is now known as the Flight of the Wild Geese.

 

St. Mary’s Cathedral:

 

St Mary’s Cathedral was founded in the eleventh century and is one of  the oldest buildings in Limerick city.  The cathedral continues as a place of worship to this very day.

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Its magnificent altar was stolen by Cromwell in the 17th century, but was returned to the cathedral in the 1960’s. 

 

Pery’s Square / People’s Park:

 

The People’s Park is located in Pery’s Square and is the main park in the city.  Boasting many beautiful deciduous trees it is a wonderful amenity for the people of this city.

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This beautiful Victorian drinking fountain was recently restored.  The Limerick City Gallery of Art is also located on Pery’s Square.

 

University of Limerick:

 

The University of Limerick lies on the banks of the river Shannon.  Founded in 1972, it officially became a university in 1989 and is the first university established since Irish independence in 1922.

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Built on a vast campus of 110 acres, over 11,000 undergraduates study here each year, including 2,400 international students, many of whom hail from the United States.

 

Hunt Museum:

 

The Hunt Museum houses one of Ireland’s greatest private collections of art and antiquities.

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Artifacts on display date from the Neolithic period to the 20th century and include bronze and iron age pieces such as the ‘Cross of Antrim’.

An ancient Greek drachma on display is supposedly one of the thirty pieces of silver paid to Judas for betraying Christ. 

Works by Renoir, Picasso and Yeats can also be seen.

 

Limerick Museum:

 

Limerick Museum is the oldest local authority museum in Ireland and was established in 1916.

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The nearly 60,000 objects and artifacts on display were chosen to tell the story of Limerick and its people.

Another new museum, The Frank McCourt Museum is dedicated to Limerick’s most famous literary son.

 

Thomond Park:

 

Thomond Park is hallowed ground for Munster rugby fans where the city’s famous rugby team has celebrated many victories.

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Visitors are welcome at Thomond Park and can participate in a full Museum and Stadium tour.

 

Adare:

 

Adare village is often called Ireland’s prettiest village and is an important heritage town of Ireland.

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2015/05/13/the-thatched-cottage-as-a-symbol-of-ireland/

Home to many magnificent old thatched cottages, these beautifully preserved buildings are a tribute to Ireland’s cultural inheritance.

Adare Castle, also known as Desmond Castle, was erected in the 13th century on the site of an ancient ring-fort.

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A strategic fortress on the banks of the River Maigue, it was the property of the Earls of Kildare for nearly 300 years. In 1536 it was forfeited to the Earls of Desmond who gave the castle its present name.  Tours of the castle operate during the summer months.

Adare Manor is a luxury 5-star hotel and golf resort on 840 acres of magnificent parkland.

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The Dunraven family created the beautiful village and manor house of Adare almost two centuries ago.  If you wish to spoil yourself with a sumptuous stay in lavish surroundings then look no further than Adare Manor.

Ballynacourty Gardens and Curraghchase Forest Park are lovely outdoor havens close to Adare just waiting to be enjoyed and explored.

 

Askeaton Castle and Franciscan Friary:

 

Askeaton lies just 3 kilometers south of the Shannon Estuary on the banks of the River Deel.

Boasting a rich history, a ruined castle dating back to 1199, stands on a tiny island in the center of the town.

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The ruins of a Franciscan Friary from 1389. founded by the 4th Earl of Desmond, stand on the banks of the river.

 

Newcastle West:

 

Desmond Hall in the town of Newcastle West is one of Ireland’s best surviving medieval halls and is an impressive two-storey structure used by the Earls of Desmond for banqueting and entertainment.

Constructed during the 15th century, the building has been restored to include an oak musicians’ gallery and a limestone hooded fireplace.

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Local folklore claims that this castle was once a seat of the Knights Templar.

Glenquin Castle is a fine tower house and survives from the 16th century and is open to the public during the summer months.

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It’s name is derived from the Irish, Gleann an Choim (pronounced glown on khim) which is Irish for Glen of the Shelter.

The Great Southern Greenway is located near Newcastle West and is a perfect way to explore Ireland’s rolling green landscape.

The trail is partially completed, joining Limerick to Tralee along the old railway line which first opened in 1867. So far 40 kilometers of the route have been completed. It’s a perfect route for off-road walking and cycling.

 

Foynes:

 

Foynes village on the southern bank of the Shannon Estuary is a major port.  It’s here that the first ever Irish Coffee was made to warm American airboat passengers on a cold evening.

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Foynes history as a center of aviation and seafaring can be explored at the Foynes Flying Boat and Maritime Museum.

The area is also home to some lovely parks and gardens including Boyce Garden, Foynes Woodland. and Knockpatrick Gardens

 

Glin Castle:

 

Glin Castle is the ancestral home of the Knights of Glin and the family home of the FitzGeralds.

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A ruined Glin Castle can be found in the village of Glin and the present castle, on the banks of the Shannon Estuary was built in the 1780’s.  It is currently operated as a hotel.

 

Lough Gur:

 

Lough Gur is a mystical, horseshoe shape lake at the base of Knockadoon Hill between the towns of Herbertstown and Bruff.

www.irishamericanmom.com

The Heritage Centre was fully refurbished and restored in 2013 and houses an exhibition of artifacts and information about this important archaeological site.

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Evidence of early human settlements can still be found at Lough Gur.

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Within sight of Lough Gur on the slope of a hill, is an ancient wedge tomb, locally known as the “Giant’s Grave.”  You can learn more about Ireland’s megalithic monuments in my blog post all about dolmens.

Grange Stone Circle is the largest stone circle in Ireland, meaning it has the widest circumference.

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Built by Bronze Age people who lived around Lough Gur in 2,100 BC, they performed ancient rituals here at dawn on the summer solstice.

 

Bruff – Old Irish Ways Museum:

 

Just outside the town of Bruff you’ll find the Old Irish Ways Museum. 

 

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2016/08/05/old-irish-ways-heritage-museum/

Displays include an old Irish pub, interior furnishings of an old schoolhouse and rural thatched cottages, together with a vast array of old farm machinery.

 

Kilmallock:

 

Kilmallock is a walled medieval town of ecclesiastical origin. St. Maloch founded his monastery here in the 6th century.

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Remains of the original round tower can be seen at this monastic site.

Visitors are welcome to visit the Kilmallock Museum and Historic Town Trail where walking tours of the town can be arranged.

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John’s Castle stands in the middle of the main street and was built in the 15th Century. The town walls can be explored close by.

 

Ballyhoura Bike Trail:

 

For those who enjoy exercise and outdoor pursuits, the Ballyhoura Bike Trail is the longest network of its kind in Ireland.

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Boasting 98 kilometers of trails through magnificent scenery, forest roads, twists and turns, board walk and technical rocky terrain this is an amenity for the serious biker.

 

Galtee Mountains:

 

The Galtee Mountains are lovingly known as the Galtees to locals, and lie on the borders of Limerick, Tipperary and Cork counties.

https://www.irishamericanmom.com/2016/09/13/the-metal-gate-irelands-picture-frame/

The surrounding valleys are part of the Golden Vale and boast some of Ireland’s lushest, fertile farmland.

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Galtymore is Ireland’s tallest inland mountain and the Limerick/Tipperary border traverses this peak.

 

Glenstal Abbey:

 

Glenstal Abbey is located in the village of Murroe and is run by the Benedictine order.

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Home to a boarding school for boys, a farm, a guesthouse and a monastic community, it is a unique and spiritual place to visit.

 

Thank You For Touring Limerick With Me:

 

An there you have it – a quick tour of some of County Limerick’s beautiful scenery and historical sites.  Here are some helpful websites if you are planning a visit.

 

Visit Newcastle West

This Is Limerick 

 

If you would like to join me on a photographic tour of some of Ireland’s other counties you’ll find the links here.

Wishing everyone happy trails in County Limerick.

 

Slán agus beannacht,

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom

Filed Under: Ireland - County By County Tagged With: Ballyhoura Country, Castles of Ireland, County Limerick, Galtee Mountains, Glin Castle, Ireland's Counties, Kilmallock, Lessons about Ireland, Lessons For Tourists, Limerick City, Medieval Ireland, Newcastle West

Monthly Update From Anne Driscoll

July 7, 2017 by Irish American Mom 6 Comments

It’s time for our monthly update from Anne Driscoll, an American living in Ireland, who shares her Irish adventures and insights into what it means to be Irish, and to become Irish.

And so, without further ado, let me hand you over to Anne…..

 

Introducing Ireland To Friends:

 

It’s exactly three years and eight months since I first arrived in Ireland and in the last month, I returned to Ireland after being away in Boston for two weeks and was surprised by how much longer the days are now stretching. Last night the last light was fading away at 11 pm.

Coral Fragments from Trá an Dóilín, Carraroe, County Galway.

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Two days after my arrival back, two American friends Jody and Sue arrived and in a single day, I took them to turn turf on the bog and to collect shells and coral at a rare coral beach, Trá an Dóilín.

We used the public toilets there and Sue was so fascinated by the fact that the toilet seat was made of two wood strips fixed into the toilet with screws, she took a photo.

 

The Galway Hooker and Currach Races:

 

For the kick-off of the Galway hooker and currach race season, the priest said mass and blessed the boats, including mine. He talked about Cincís, the time of year between Easter and Whit Sunday when the seas are unpredictable, volatile and dangerous and the fishermen avoid going out. They are not being superstitious; I am told there have been many drownings and disasters at sea over the years.

Galway Hookers

We do go out in the Irishman’s wooden currach that he rebuilt – an ark of a boat that easily carries 12 people with plenty of room to spare, but stay within the bay.

We have a close up view of the fleet of fine wooden Galway hookers, unlike any boats sailing the seas. The red sails and black hulls contrast deeply against the blue skies and seas, the white caps and clouds. “We are in a painting,” Trish quips.

 

All Things Turf:

 

The following week, the Irishman and I spend some time footing turf, the practice of stacking five or six sods of turf upright, leaning one against one another in pyramid shapes, which helps the turf to dry further after the turning.

My turf skills just continue to keep growing: Turning. Footing. Stacking. Laying down a fire.

 

Keys To The Castle:

 

We stopped at a bed and breakfast in Navan and when the host was showing us the room, she said, “I can give you the keys to the castle back there out your window if you want” as if it was totally normal to offer a bed, breakfast and castle access, too.

I head onto Dublin from Navan to see friends and wish Anita well as she packs up and moves to Cork. It was supposed to be an impromptu pub crawl of all Anita’s favorite pubs but it begins and ends at the Dice bar. In the Dice bathroom, I see graffiti on the bathroom stall door that says:  “Three things I hate: 1. Vandalism 2. Lists 3. Irony.”

Fun Fact: We learned that night that Nora had starred in a Bollywood music video in which she appeared in a yellow bikini by a pool and did a dance that seemed more like a Zombie walk. She graciously demonstrated her dance techniques for us all.

I said my goodbyes to Anita, with teary eyes, and a love confessional. She has no idea what her friendship has meant to me since I landed on these shores.

 

Coastal Life In Galway:

 

Last weekend I brought a donation to a currach marathon to benefit the volunteer lifeboats, organized in part by one of the owners of the Galway hooker, the True Light, which once capsized and the people on board were saved by the lifeboat. Weirdly, the True Light was the only boat that was spared in a 1927 maritime disaster that claimed 45 men and eight boats in Cleggan Bay.

I got to talking to a woman about Omey Island and she said she frequently walks there. She gave me directions on how to find the ancient church that had been buried in sand until the 1980s.

I asked her if she knew Pascal Whelan, the last man living on Omey Island who had died there in February, leaving behind a car, a caravan and a dog.

She said yes and she told me his dog didn’t want to leave the island. “No one is sure whether it is because he loves the island or because he misses Pascal.”

Omey Island

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She said that people from the mainland were taking turns, following the tides and going out to feed the dog. She is not sure what is happening now with the dog, but she hopes the dog is okay.

I told her I had just been thinking about the pets left behind when someone dies, when their season is over. A man in the area recently died leaving behind a cart, a caravan, a house, a dog, a donkey and a Connemara pony and I watched sadly as a man lead the horse into a trailer to be taken away.

 

Irish Seasons:

 

I am growing accustomed to the seasons here. There is the lambing season, followed by the calving season. And now it is the season of the students who swell the population by half in the village. They come to live and study in an Irish-speaking region of Ireland to brush up their language skills and prepare for the leaving cert exams.

Life is strict for them. Lights out at 10:30pm. Wake up at 7:45. Breakfast at 8:15. No English. Irish only. And I can only imagine many a worried woman throughout the Gaeltacht whose oven has croaked or freezer malfunctioned just as they are about to welcome 15 students to stay at their home for three weeks.

Sign for an Irish speaking area in the west of Ireland.

Image Credit

The Irish language is an important income stream for this area. The big white buses transport the students to class. The families put them up and feed them. The shops sell them drinks, chocolates and crisps, but only certain sizes and certain kinds – all proscribed by the Irish school.

There is always the turn of seasons here – when the turf is turned, when the seas are rough, when the hookers race, when the students come, when friends leave, and when old men die. And there is a quiet beauty and steadiness in that.

 

How To Follow Anne’s Adventures:

 

You can check out more of Anne’s writings on her website, or follow her on Twitter.

If you enjoyed this blog post, check out Anne Driscoll’s mini-memoir series, beginning with Irish You Were Here: My Year of Matchmaking Festivals, Fairy Forts and Mugging My Mugger in Ireland.

Irish You Were Here is for both the armchair traveler and active adventurer, the dreamers and the daredevils, the writers, poets and storytellers, and all the activists out there lead by their passions.

This is an Ireland you won’t read about in tour guides and it’s one you won’t soon forget. It’s for everyone who is Irish and for anyone who wished they were.

You can find Irish You Were Here at Amazon Kindle here.

 

A big thank you to Anne for another wonderful installment of her Irish tales. Wishing her a very happy summer in County Galway.

 

Slán agus beannacht,

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom 

Filed Under: General Tagged With: An Ghaeltacht, Anne Driscoll, Connemara, County Galway, Ireland's Coastline, Irish Culture, Irish Life, Irish You Were Here, Land and Culture, Lessons For Tourists, Why Tourists Love Ireland

How to Tour Ireland Your Own Way

July 5, 2017 by Irish American Mom 8 Comments

One of the reasons why travelers dislike travel packages is they find them restrictive and inflexible. Packaged trips don’t really give you a say on the itineraries, accommodation, restaurants, or stops along the way.

The only real advantage of these packages is they take you from point A to point B, without you having to do all the driving.

Touring Ireland with Rabbies’ Tours

Fortunately, there are travel companies offering alternatives to the standard ‘travel package’.

These alternatives appeal to those with the independent traveler’s mindset. They want you to see the best places in a convenient way, but also enjoy the destinations according to your taste and the type of experience you are after.

Do you identify with that type of traveler?

If so, then let’s see what choices you have in Ireland!

Dunguaire Castle, County Galway

How can you go on a ‘safe adventure’ following your own rules in Ireland?

 

We’ll be talking about Rabbie’s Tours today, a company that has specialized in delivering these types of experiences for the last 24 years. Following their success in organizing small off-the-beaten-path group tours in Scotland, they decided to embark on an Ireland adventure in 2007. So, they’re relatively new to Ireland, but with lots of experience.

Galway City

They create niche tours that also manage to appeal to many.

So…

 

What is the formula for their success?

 

These are the pillars of Rabbies’ Tours success:

  • They know the places they visit like the back of their hands. Based on that knowledge, they build lovely itineraries and tour routes. Then, once on the tour itself, not everything is set in stone: they can take a detour, make a further stop along the way, allow more time in one place… These changes are based on the group’s feedback, requests, and tastes, and the guide’s personal expertise.
Ireland’s Coastline
  • They admit they’re obsessed with quality. This also explains why they don’t offer one day tours to Northern Ireland or to the Cliffs of Moher from Dublin. The demand for these tours is huge. However, that travel style, where you cover enormous travel distances in a small amount of time without many stops or fun along the way doesn’t match Rabbie’s values.
  • They only organize small group tours of up to 16 passengers. They believe it’s the only way they can guarantee authentic personal experiences.They go off the beaten path as much as possible.
The Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry
  • Travelling on a mini-coach allows them to take the country roads and get to the marvelous Irish hidden gems.Travel your way” is their motto. You can choose your accommodation or let them help you find it, skip or visit an attraction, go for a budget restaurant, or pamper yourself with a luxury meal. None of these things are included on their tours, so you can truly customize your experience and travel your way.
  • Their guides are the best storytellers. They carefully select their driver-guides for their passion, knowledge of Ireland, and ability to be informational but fun at the same time.
Kylemore Abbey, County Galway

You can see Rabbies’ selection of Ireland tours here.

And if these are not customized enough for you, they even offer the choice of private tours (totally tailor-made).

A big thank you to Rabbie’s Tours for sharing their experiences with us today.  Wishing them a very happy summer touring Ireland this year. I really appreciate the lovely photos they provided for this post. 

 

Slán agus beannacht,

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom

Filed Under: Land and Culture, Lessons for Tourists Tagged With: Ireland's Coastline, Irish Tourist, Irish Tourist Attractions, Irish Tours, Lessons For Tourists, Rabbie's Tours, Why Tourists Love Ireland

Introducing Savor Ireland Tours

March 15, 2017 by Irish American Mom 6 Comments

Ireland’s culinary culture is experiencing a popularity surge. I’ve long loved Irish foods – as you know from reading this blog.

But I’m delighted that the rest of world is now recognizing Ireland for its contributions to the gastronomic world. This trend is no more evident than in the newest offering from CIE Tours – the largest tour operator to Ireland.

They recently launched “Savor Ireland” – a treat for food fans everywhere!

Group of friends eating seafood and having fun outside with musicians playing in the background at Johnnie Fox’s pub, Dublin

 

Savor Ireland Tour:

 

When you’re on this tour get ready to discover the incredible tastes of Ireland over eight days filled with the flavors of farm-to-fork cheeses, freshly caught seafood, world-famous stouts, Irish coffees, and more. You’ll also hone your cooking skills with interactive food-focused experiences including cooking classes and talks with esteemed chefs.

 

Highlights of the Savor Ireland Tour:

 

* Sample the wares at St. Tola Farm, a farm-to-table cheese producer
* Feast on freshly-caught seafood platters prepared with the finest local ingredients at the Armada Hotel
* Discover the joy of authentic Irish cooking with demonstrations at Dingle Cookery School and at Ballyknocken House, home of television chef and food writer, Catherine Fulvio
* Stroll through centuries of brewing excellence and sample featured ales at the VIP Smithwick’s Experience
* Relax over dinner at Heather Restaurant and Gardens
* Immerse yourself in the food culture of Dublin during an escorted food-focused walking tour
* Dine with earls, lords and ladies at a medieval-style Banquet at Knappogue Castle

A medieval feast at Bunratty Castle

 

Dine at a Michelin Star Restaurant in Dublin:

 

As if that isn’t enough – CIE Tours has partnered with one of Dublin’s Michelin Star restaurants to offer guest a very special night out – dinner at L’Ecrivain Restaurant.

With only five Michelin Star restaurants in Dublin, you’ll experience some of the finest cuisine the city has to offer.

But you must book Savor Ireland by March 31, 2017 Michelin Star restaurant to enjoy this fine-dining treat!*

 

Booking Details:

 

I was delighted to learn about this wonderful Irish food trip organized by CIE tours. The dates for 2017 are outlined below. 

But before I share the dates and links with you a little legal update is required, since these links are affiliate links. This means I will earn a commission should you choose to purchase a trip through one of these links on my website.

My main goal in working with CIE tours is to keep you up-to-date on these wonderful travel opportunities, and should you choose to purchase through my site, I thank you sincerely.

And now that I have taken care of that boring legalese, here’s all the yummy details for booking your trip today!

Simply click on a date for further information.

 

May 8, 2017, 8 Days/7 Nights (cancelled) 

Aug 21, 2017 – 8 days/7 nights

Oct 23, 2017 – 8 days/7 nights

 

*Book by 03/31/17 and receive a free upgrade to dinner at a Michelin Star Restaurant in replacement of scheduled dinner on Day 5 of the itinerary.

Not combinable with any other CIE Tours offers or discounts, and not available on Group travel.

Valid on new bookings only, may be withdrawn at any time, is subject to availability and other conditions may apply. Call for details.

Irish Cheese Display

 

Happy Travels To Ireland:

 

Wishing you all happy travel planning this spring and for all who are planning a trip to Ireland.

I hope you have the time of your life creating memories to savor for years to come.

 

Slán agus beannacht,

(Goodbye and blessings)

 

Irish American Mom

Filed Under: A Taste of Ireland, Cooking, Lessons for Tourists, Why Tourists Love Ireland Tagged With: CIE Tours, Food Tours, Irish Food and Cooking, Irish Tours, Lessons For Tourists, Travel in Ireland

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