County Sligo Land of Heart's Desire

County Sligo has been praised and immortalized by the poetry of William Butler Yeats. He fell in love with the magnificent scenery of this coastal county in Connacht.

Sligo is a tourist's dream. The scenery is dominated by Ben Bulben, a table top mountain overlooking the ocean and the town of Sligo.

In County Sligo you'll find lakes and mountains, waterfalls and castles, aristocratic homes, lush landscapes and some of Ireland's most fascinating archaeological sites.

Sligo is steeped in ancient history, myth and legend. So why not join me on an armchair photographic tour of this magnificent Irish county.

Be prepared to be blown away by some of the most spectacular scenery along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Table of Contents

Finding County Sligo On An Irish Map

County Sligo is located in the north west of Ireland, and is part of the province of Connacht.

County Sligo in Bright Green - Creative Commons Image

It is one of five counties in Connacht and is bordered by three of the other four, Leitrim to the north and east, Roscommon to the south and Mayo to the west.

It's coastline is part of Donegal Bay, and from Sligo you can see parts of the southern shores of County Donegal.

Origins of the Name Sligo

In the Irish language the name for County Sligo is Contae Sligeach (pronounced shlih-gock). This translates as "abounding in shells" or shelly place.

Many kinds of shellfish are found along the coastline, and in the rivers that flow out into the Atlantic ocean.

The nicknames for this county and its people include the following:

• Yeat's Country - due to WB Yeats love of this beautiful part of the world.
• The Herring Pickers - is a slang term for people from Sligo because this area was traditionally associated with the fishing industry.
• The Land of Heart's Desires - this term is a tourist slogan taken from an 1894 play of the same name, by Yeats.
• The Magpies - the county GAA team wears black and white, hence the reference to magpies. They are also sometimes called the Zebras.

Towns of County Sligo

Here's a quick look at some of the main towns of County Sligo.

Sligo Town

Sligo town has a population of around 20,000 people, who live in a spot with amazing picturesque views. The town is nestled between Benbulben to the north, and Knocknarea mountain to the west.

To the east of the town is Lough Gill and to the south you'll find the rugged Ox Mountains.

The breathtaking landscapes surrounding Sligo have been somewhat overlooked by tourists, so here you'll find everything that other more popular tourist destinations offer, but without the crowds.

The town of Sligo dates back to Norman times. The Lord Justice of Ireland, Maurice Fitzgerald who was a Norman, invaded Connacht in 1239. He drove the Gaelic chieftain, O'Donnell back towards Donegal. In 1245 Fitzgerald built a castle where the town of Sligo is now located.

In 1253, Fitzgerald commissioned the building of the Abbey of Sligo, which was given to the Dominicans, who are still present in Sligo to this very day.

Many battles were fought over Sligo Castle between the O'Donnells and the Fitzgeralds. It was plundered and rebuilt many times.

In 1516, the O'Donnell's took possession of Sligo castle and its surrounding town. Red Hugh O'Donnell demolished the castle for the final time in 1595. He destroyed his own property rather than let it fall into English hands.

Today, Sligo is home to many art galleries, and a museum dedicated to WB Yeats. There are many wonderful restaurants to enjoy, and a taste of Sligo is a taste of the freshest produce in the world.

Enniscrone

Enniscrone has been a destination for Irish holiday makers for decades.

The town is situated beside a five kilometer stretch of sandy shoreline, with golden sands. This strand is nestled in a very sheltered nook of the County Sligo coastline.

This is the destination for anyone who likes ocean sports such as para sailing, paddle boarding, surfing, and sailing.

Don't forget your wet suit - swimming in the Atlantic ocean can be chilly in Ireland, even in the summer months.

Strandhill

Strandhill is an amazing stop on Ireland's west coast, or the Wild Atlantic Way, the longest defined coastal touring route in the world.

At Strandhill you'll find one of Ireland's most spectacular sandy beaches and surfing locations.

The sand dunes soar above the coastline, with marm grasses blowing in the breezes.

Knocknarea, the cairn topped mountain associated with Queen Maeve of Connacht, stands sentinel beside the town.

Dolly's Cottage is a lovely tea shop housed in a traditional Irish thatched cottage.

Strandhill is a wonderful base for touring County Sligo.

Mullaghmore

As you stroll along the incredible white sandy beach on Mullaghmore Head you can take in the amazing scenery of County Sligo, with spectacular views of Ben Bulben.

Mullaghmore Head is a fantastic spot for surfers, with plenty of big waves to enjoy.

Mullaghmore is a small fishing village, that's home to some fabulous restaurants where you can savor fresh seafood, and enjoy a true Irish welcome.

From the picturesque stone harbor in the village, you can take boat trips out into the Atlantic ocean. You could visit Inishmurray Island from Mullaghmore in years gone by, but these ferries are now on hold.

Classiebawn Castle can be admired in the distance from the village of Mullaghmore.

Castles and Big Houses of County Sligo

Some of County Sligo's castles and mansions lie in ruins, but many stand as symbols of our history and complicated past. Some are open to visitors for tours, and some have been transformed into hotels.

Classiebawn Castle

This beautiful castle was built for the 3rd Viscount Palmerston in the 19th century. It stood on a large estate of more than 10,000 acres.

In 1916 the house was left empty and remained so until the 1950's.

It was inherited by Countess Mountbatten of Burma in 1939. She installed electricity and made improvements to the home. After she passed away in 1960, her husband, Lord Mountbatton, spent his summers in Mullaghmore in the castle. He was a cousin of Queen Elizabeth II.

Unfortunately, he lost his life in a tragic incident off the coast of County Sligo, when his boat was blown up by the IRA. This was a horrific part of the Troubles of Northern Ireland.

Today, the castle and surrounding lands are owned by the estate of the late Hugh Tunney. He purchased the castle and surrounding estate in 1991.

This is a private residence and is not opent to the public. However, the castle can be viewed from many vantage points around Mullaghmore Head, and is a wonderful subject for photography enthusiasts.

Ballymote Castle

Ballymote Castle lies in ruins today, but visitors can still envisage how it was once the strongest stone fortress in the province of Connacht.

It was built by a Norman knight, Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, in the 1300's.

The layout of the castle can still be appreciated. It boasts a large gate building with round towers on each side of the entrance.

The thick walls that still remain, remind us that this structure was built with defence in mind.

Lissadell House

Lissadell House is the ancestral home and birthplace of Countess Markievicz, who was born Constance Georgine Gore Booth.

She is most famous for the role she played in the Easter Rising of 1916. She truly was a remarkable woman.

Despite being born into great wealth, with all the privileges of an Anglo-Irish family, she devoted her life to work tirelessly for the poor and the dispossesed.

She risked her life for Ireland's freedom from British rule. and she continues to inspire Irish people to this day.

William Butler Yeats often visited the Gore-Booth family at Lissadell. He fell in love with County Sligo while staying here.

Today, this house is a private residence, but during the summer months, the house is open for tours. Plus the gardens are truly beautiful, and well worth a visit.

Moygara Castle

Moygara Castle is currently undergoing restoration.

It is the ancient home of the O'Gara clan, so I had to mention it here, since my name is Geary, which is another form of O'Gara. The Irish for Geary is O'Gadhra, which is the same as O'Gara.

This ancient castle that dates back to the late 16th century is my family's ancestral home.

The group organizing the conservation of this castle plan to stabilize the remains of this castle ruin, and hopefully open it to the public someday.

Roslee Castle

Roslee Castle is a medieval tower house that stands beside the pier at Easkey on the north coast of County Sligo.

It is often referred to locally as O'Dowd’s Castle, or Easkey Castle.

This tower dates back to 1207. It was build for Oliver McDonnell, who moved to County Sligo, when he married a member of the O'Dowd clan.

This prominent stronghold was probably surrounded by other structures or walls, but today only the keep remains.

Those that are brave and with good stamina, can venture to the top of the tower. The climb is along very uneven, winding steps but the climb is well worth it.

The top of the castle affords some magnificent views of the stunning County Sligo coastline.

Temple House

Temple House is an old Georgian mansion, lying in the middle of an estate with over 1000 acres.

It is operated today as a luxury guesthouse, and visitors can take in the ruins of an old Knights Templar castle by the adjacent lake.

In 1216, these lands were first granted to the Knights Templar, a medieval Catholic military organization.

In 1627, the castle was converted to a residece, and in 1665 it was acquired by the Perceval family.

The current house was built in 1825, and extended around 1864.

Many Irish "big houses" were abandoned by their owners throughout the 20th century, but Temple House is a wonderful exception.

It's long history and continuity of ownership add a wonderful charm to this luxurious country home, surrounded by lush, green countryside, and majestic woodlands.

Longford House

Longford House, an old country manor, stands in ruins in Beltra, West Sligo.

Owned by Lady Sally Crofton, Longford House is set amongst 45 acres of woodlands and gardens. Although it is in private ownership, and not open to the public, I believe it is well worth a mention. It is part of Sligo's historical past, and hopefully will be preserved someday.

This Georgian home was built around 1783, and this estate has been owned by the Crofton family since the 1500's. The original 40,000 acre estate has been reduced over the years and now comprises 45 acres.

Lady Crofton has plans to try to restore this beautiful home.

Hazlewood House

Hazlewood House is now the home of the Lough Gill Distillery, and the Athrú Whiskey brand.

This exquisite Palladian-style mansion was abandoned for years, and falling into decay.

In 2014, a group of friends purchased the home and a vast warehouse that stands behind it.

They transformed the warehouse into a distillery, and are slowly renovating and repairing this magnificent house.

Hopefully, a little whiskey can save this neglected treasure of County Sligo, and bring Hazlewood House back to its former glory.

Markree Castle

Markree Castle dates back to the 17th Century. The castle and the estate around it were granted to the Cooper family under the 1662 Act of Settlement of King Charles II.

When the Cooper family acquired these lands, thre was a fort on the site where the castle now stands. By 1727, the Cooper family owned 40,000 acres and were the proud owners of a beautiful manor house.

In the early 19th century the home was extended and improved by the architect Francis Johnson. He designed the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, the chapel in Dublin Castle and Charleville Castle in County Offaly.

The early 20th century was a difficult time for the Cooper family. Their lands were reduced to around 5,000 acres and the castle was badly damaged during the Irish Civil War of 1921-1922.

In the 1980's, the 10th generation of the Cooper family to live in the castle, decided to renovate the derelict castle and create a hotel.

Legendary country singer Johnny Cash and his wife June Carter stayed at this magnificent castle hotel. In 2015, Charles and Mary Cooper retired and sold the castle to the Corscadden Family, who own many other castle hotels around Ireland.

If you have ever dreamed of staying in an Irish castle, then Markree Castle may be the destination for you.

Monastic and Ancient Sites in County Sligo

Sligo's countryside and mountains are dotted with ancient megalithic sites and neolithic ruins.

This passage tomb landscape has recently been approved for inclusion on Ireland's tentative list of UNESCO world heritage sites.

Here's a quick look at some of the most important sacred sites of the county.

Sligo Abbey

This old Dominican monastery lies right in the hearth of Sligo town centre. It dates back to the mid-thirteenth century. Maurice FitzGerald, the founder of the town itself sponsored the building of this abbey. Some of the original buildings still stand.

The abbey has had a tumultuous history and was partially destroyed by a fire started by an unattended candle in 1414.

The Rebellion of 1641 resulted in further damage to the abbey.

The remains of this once magnificent monastery are well worth visiting and are open for tours.

You'll find many beautiful carvings, including Gothic and Renaissance tomb sculptures, and a well-preserved cloister.

It is also home to a sculptured fifteenth-century high altar. This is the only example of this type of monastic altar to survive in Ireland.

Carrowkeel

Carrowkeel is a collection of megalithic monuments that dot the extensive mountainous landscape of the Bricklieve mountains.

This area was settled by early neolithic cattle-farmers who originally came from Brittany in France, another Celtic nation.

This is a mysterious place, that I would definitely consider to be one of Ireland's thin places.

Carrowkeel consists of a series of cairns, which are man-made piles of stones, stacked together to mark a spot, usually as a burial mound.

These ancient cairns are situated on limestone ridges high above the western shores of Lough Arrow.

They're located close to the village of Castlebaldwin. In the area around Carrowkeel, you will find a total of fourteen neolithic passage-graves, together with other ancient monuments.

Carrowmore

County Sligo is a history lover's paradise. Here' you'll find the largest and oldest collection of dolmens and neolithic stone circles in all of Ireland.

Carrowmore is home to a large collection of prehistoric burial and ceremonial monuments, and lies only four kilometers southwest of Sligo town.

The Carrowmore complex consists of over thirty monuments. In 1837, over 65 monuments were noted at this site during an Ordinance Survey by George Petrie.

Unfortunately many of Ireland's ancient sites were damaged during the early years of the twentieth century.

When you visit Carrowmore and look around, you will notice a neolithic monument on nearly every rise and peak of the surrounding land.

Old Irish legend claims the monuments were built by an old hag or cailleach (pronounced cal-yock) named Garavogue. The river in Sligo also bears her name.

She now lives in the Ballygawley mountains or Ox mountains, where more neolithic monuments can be found.

Tobernalt

Tobernalt is an ancient holy well that's located in a beautiful and tranquil spot at the south foot of Carns Hill.

This sacred place and well was used by the Celts, long before Ireland became a Christian country.

It's name comes from Tobar (pronounced tub-er meaning well) and Alt (pronounced as Alt, and meaning cliff). This is the well of the cliff.

The site was also home to a Mass Rock. It was here that Catholics would assemble in secret to celebrate Mass during penal times in Ireland.

Between 1690 and 1828, the British rulers of Ireland made it illegeal to openly practice the Catholic religion anywhere on the island of Ireland. There even was a bounty on the head of Catholic priests.

As a result the Irish practiced their religion in hidden holy places, with lookouts checking for the authorities, as mass was celebrated.

Drumcliffe and W. B. Yeats

The village of Drumcliffe lies to the north of Sligo town. It;s most famous as the final resting place of W.B.Yeats, the world renowned Irish poet.

His grave lies in the churchyard under a simple headstone. This cemetery lies at the foot of Ben Bulben, the place where Yeats requested to be buried.

The inscription on Yeats' gravestone says, "cast a cold eye on life, on death, horseman, pass by."

He penned his own epitaph prior to his death, also requesting that his grave consist of "no marble, no conventional phrase".

There's a coffee shop and craftshop on site beside Drumcliffe Church. Visitors can enjoy some delicious homebaking and browse the gift shop for some beautiful local crafts.

Creevykeel

Creevykeel is an ancient neolithic monument situated at the foothills of Tievebaun Mountain, and very close to the ocean at Mullaghmore.

It's an example of a full-court tomb, and it is one of the finest examples of these burial monuments in all of Ireland.

This wedge-shaped cairn dates back to around 4000 BC – 2500 BC, and is over 50 meters long.

In 1935 this site was excavated and four burials were discovered, together with neolithic pottery, stone axes, scrapers and flint knives.

Out and About in County Sligo

County Sligo is located along the Irish coastline and is part of the Wild Atlantic Way. Here, Ireland's western shoreline is spectacular, watched over by unique and picturesque mountains.

Rosses Point

Rosses Point is a seaside village on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. There's a spectacular sandy beach, plus a fabulous coastal trail for hikers.

Rosses Point is also the name of the peninsula, where the village is located just 5 miles west of Sligo town on the Wild Atlantic Way.

The village is home to plenty of good restaurants and there's a large hotel in town. This is a lively, busy place during the summer months.

The picturesque backdrop of Ben Bulben and the Dartry mountains, makes this point in Sligo Bay absolutely breathtaking.

You can drop by the harbour and catch a boat tour of Sligo and Donegal bays.

There's a magnificent golf club for those who enjoy an exciting round of golf by the ocean.

Coney Island

Did you know that the famous Coney Island of New York may have been named after its far less famous counterpart in County Sligo?

The Irish word for rabbit is coinín (pronounced kun-een), and Coney Island in Sligo is home to many rabbits.

The Irish version of the story about the naming of the famous island in New York goes like this.

A merchant ship known as the Arethusa would sail regularly between New York and Sligo in the late 1700's. The captain, Peter O'Connor, noticed that the island in New York harbor was home to many rabbits, just like the island that lay only a mile from his home in Sligo.

He called the island in New York, Coney Island, after the island in Sligo.

Coney Island lies between Rosses Point and Strandhill, and can be reached by foot, by car, or by boat.

But a word of warning for those who access the island by foot or by car. The road is submerged at high tide, so it's very easy to get stranded on the island. It's important to follow the times of the tides, and plan your journey well. There's a texting service about tidal times available for visitors.

The Sligo coastline is on full view from the island, plus there are rabbits galore, fairy forts, and abandoned homes to explore.

Ben Bulben

Ben Bulben, a magnificent table top mountain, is synonymous with County Sligo.

Standing tall above Drumcliffe Village, views of this magestic mountain dominate most of the northern parts of County Sligo.

For hillwalkers it's important to follow the Benbulben Loop Trail, since some trails to the top of the mountain run through private lands.

The flat stretch of the summit provides magical panoramic views of the coastline and the Wild Atlantic Way. On clear days, County Donegal can be seen in the distance.

The hike brings you along glacial tracks, past babbling streams and a breathtaking waterfall.

Knocknarea

Knocknarea lies south west of Sligo town and dominates the skyline over Strandhill.

A massive rocky cairn lies on its summit, and is referred to as "Queen Maeve's Grave." It is clearly visible from many locations all over County Sligo.

Queen Maeve was the legendary ruler of Connacht who stole the brown bull of Cooley from County Louth, and started an epic war between Connacht and Ulster. You can read all about her in a previous post - Knocknarea And Queen Maeve of Connacht.

This huge cairn has never been excavated, and it is believed that it covers a large neolithic passage tomb.

The Irish language form of Knocknarea is Cnoc na Ri (pronounced kin-uck nah ree), which means “Hill of Kings.”

Legend has it that the Kings and Queens of Connacht were crowned on top of this mountain.

Knocknashee Walk

Knocknashee is named after the Irish term for Hill of the Fairies, or Cnoc na Sí (pronounced kin-uck nah shee).

Lying in south west Sligo, this is another mystical table-top mountain.

It dominates the surrounding countryside which is dotted with small hillocks or drumlins, formed by glaciers many thousands of years ago.

Knocknashee is a neolithic site with hilltop cairns. The countryside around Knocknashee is dotted with ringforts and prehistoric mounds.

The remains of ancient hut dwellings are also found on top of the mountain.

As the name of the mountain indicates, this hill is closely linked to the magical world of the fairies. So, disturb nothing on this hill, for fear of the wrath of the fairies.

The Caves of Keash

There are a total of 17 caves on the west side of Keashcorran Mountain which is also known as Keash Hill, and is part of the Blacklieve Mountain range. On the summit of the mountain lies an unopened ancient cairn.

The largest of these caves is nearly 40 feet in height. Some of these portals in the side of the mountain penetrate deep beneath the ground and hill above.

In years gone by bones of Ireland's ancient animals were found here, including bears, boar, wolves and deer.

Legend has it that Diarmuid and Gráinne, the famous lovers of Irish mythology, slept here for a night as they tried to evade Fionn Mac Cumhaill.

Gráinne was intended to be Fionn's wife, but she fell madly in love with Diarmuid. They set off on a flight around Ireland, with Fionn and the Fianna in hot pursuit.

The couple never spent more than one night in the same place. As a result there are many locations found all over Ireland, that are locally known as Leaba Dhiarmada and Gráinne (pronounced lah-bah year-mud-ah ah-gus graw-nah) and meaning the bed of Diarmuid and Gráinne.

The views of Sligo's lush, green landscape from these caves are magnificent.

Gleniff Horseshoe Walk

The Gleniff Horseshoe Walk is a six-mile loop, which can be walked or toured by car.

However, it's only a single-lane, narrow road, so be prepared to do some reversing if you meet another car coming in the opposite direction.

The mountain scenery is spectacular. Steep slopes with hues of greys and greens create a most picturesque backdrop. These amazing cliffs were formed many thousands of years ago.

You are surrounded by the many peaks of the Dartry mountains including Tieve Baun, Trushmore, Benbulben and Benwiskin.

The cave of Kesh Corran is visible as a dark opening on the side of one of the mountains. It was here that Fionn MacCumhaill met up with the mythical pair of Diarmuid and Gráinne.

The jealous and elderly warrior arranged for Diarmuid to die in a hunting accident. The young man was gored by a boar somewhere near Benbulben.

Be careful if you're an avid hillwalker. Some of the fields in the area hold bulls. You don't want to meet the same end as poor Diarmuid.

The Devil's Chimney Walk and Waterfall

The Devil’s Chimney is a waterfall, that cascades down a sheer rocky cliff face, but only after rainfall.

In Irish this waterfall is called ‘Sruth in Aghaidh An Aird’ (pronounced shruh in eye-guh on awe-rd), and means the stream against the cliff.

This waterfall is a weather specific phenomenon, so undertake this hour long walk on the Sligo-Leitrim border after a rainy spell.

This loop walk provides plenty of places to stop to appreciate the spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

The last part of the walk requires a decent level of fitness, so only undertake it if you are fit.

Loug Gill

Lough Gill drains into the Garavogue River that flows majestically through Sligo Town.

This picturesque lake contains about 20 islands, the most famous of which is the Lake Isle of Innisfree.

Yeats was enchanted by Lough Gill. Here are the first few lines of his famous poem...

The name Innisfree has been used extensively for branding perfumes and other products from Ireland.

The mountain formations by the shores of Lough Gill are fondly referred to as the Sleeping Warrior range. You can discern the giant warrior's outline in the photograph above.

Many brown trout and salmon swim in the waters of Lough Gill. Boat trips from Sligo Town take visitors along the Garavogue River to the beautiful lake. An open boat is the perfect vessel for exploring the wonderful landscape surrounding Lough Gill.

Ox Mountains and Ladies Brae

The Ox mountains lie in the western section of County Sligo, and are often referred to as Saint Patrick's mountains.

The saint is said to have built many churches on the slopes of these spectacular hills, and many holy wells in the area bear his name.

Ladie's Brae is a 7-mile stretch of the Sligo Way Trail. Many people believe that the most beautiful views of County Sligo can be found along this trail.

At the base of Knockalongy, the highest peak in the Ox Mountains, lies Lough Achree, which means Lake of the Heart. As its name suggests, this lake is heart-shaped.

This lake was formed in 1490 by an earthquake. It is said to be the youngest lake in all of Ireland.

Union Rock in Union Wood

Union Wood is a forested area on the slopes of Union Rock Mountain. This was once part of the Cooper Estate (see Markree Castle above).

Coillte (pronounced kweel-cha), the Irish Forestry Board, now manages this biodiverse woodland.

The top of Union Rock reveals amazing views over Ballisodare and Sligo.

This forested area includes some ancient Irish oak woodland, which has been fenced off from deer. The trail through Union Wood links up with the Sligo Way trail.

Inishmurray Island

Inishmurray Island was inhabited until the 1940's. The last residents of the island moved to the mainland in 1948.

It lies in Donegal Bay, just under 5 miles from the coast of County Sligo.

One of the best examples of an early Christian settlement in Ireland can be found on the island. This ancient monastery was founded by Saint Molaise in the 6th century.

Monks lived here for six centuries, but sometime in the 12th century they moved to the mainland. It is believed this was due to persistent Viking raids.

The ruins of a stone oratory, two churches, a clochán, and a beehive hut remain on the island. Some engraved stone slabs are thought to have been cursing stones.

The island has been deemed a Special Protection Area for marine birds, with a large colony of barnacle geese living on the island during the autumn and winter months.

Boat trips to the island are suspended at this time because of health and safety concerns related to the landing dock, and to help preserve the fragile ecosystem.

Sligo Folk Park

Sligo Folk Park is a community based tourist attraction that aims to provide visitors with a realistic experience of Irish rural life and heritage during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Located in the beautiful village of Riverstown, only 15 minutes from Sligo Town, this folk park has been created on the grounds of Millview House.

It's also only 15 minutes from the town of Boyle in County Roscommon.

You can stroll around the park or visit the musem, which houses one of Ireland's finest collections of agricultural artefacts.

There are over 6 acres of parkland to stroll and enjoy.

Thank You For Touring County Sligo With Me

I hope you've enjoyed today's photographic tour of County Sligo.

You'll find lots of helpful information on the Sligo Tourism website.

Sligo truly lives up to its name, Land of Heart's Desire, and I hope someday you will have the opportunity to experience all that Yeats loved about this amazing county.

Thanks for following my recipes and ramblings.

Happy travels in Ireland.